Judi Schulz

Christmas in the Maasai Mara – what an experience! Our tour of Kenya and Tanzania which had begun a week earlier was now taking us into the Mara and the Serengeti.

On Dec 23 we had an exciting drive to Nanyuki airport (the road was a little muddy to say the least). Our flight was delayed, but there is an excellent cafe and gift shop at this little airstrip where one can while away the time. From there we flew over the mountains to the Maasai Mara for a three night stay at Bateleur Camp, Kichwa Tembo. We were met at the airstrip by the manager (Milka – a most amazing lady) and our driver/guide - Eric. They were waiting with refreshments and wet towels for us to freshen up prior to our drive to camp.

There had been a lot of rain everywhere (this was between the rainy seasons) so road conditions were less than ideal, but the drivers and guides are so professional we never felt threatened or worried and it made the experience that much more memorable!

Our stay here was the highlight of our time in Africa – the people were so lovely and helpful (particularly our butler Boniface), the food and the accommodations were exquisite and the game drives and cultural experiences were wonderful. Our days were full of amazing wildlife encounters - my husband and daughter took thousands of photos, my son manned the video camera and I wrote the diary.

On Christmas Eve, we had a surprise cocktail party beside the Mara River; we were treated to a Maasai warrior dance and then we were taken back to camp for a beautiful dinner in the Bomba. On retiring to our tent we found it decorated with candles, rose petals, spiced oranges and a tray with glasses of Amarula and handmade candied fruit. Christmas morning Boniface brought us champagne and orange juice with our coffee and a stocking made by the Maasai with little gifts inside. Later that day we visited a Maasai village where the chief’s sons gave us a tour and talked about their homes and way of life; the women gathered and sang for us and then assembled their crafts for us to do some “Christmas” shopping. In the evening as our game drive ended we thought we were heading back to camp, but instead we rounded a bush and came upon our beautiful surprise dinner in the bush complete with a Maasai welcome show. The evening was topped off by seeing two male lions feasting on their Christmas kill as we drove back to camp – I get chills just writing about it. Unfortunately we had to leave, but I will find a way to return someday.

Just across the border in Tanzania (although after our trip to Lake Manyara – please see my other Africa journals) we stayed at Klein’s camp, a small camp on a private concession in the northeast part of the Serengeti. We had a very comfortable flight and then a very exciting trip – part jeep, part hiking (they had rubber boots for everyone) – to get to camp. They had 60 mm of rain in about an hour the night before we arrived so a few bridges were washed out – this is Africa! We still saw quite a lot of wildlife here including a pair of lions courting, a coalition of five male lions right next to the road, elephants, giraffes, reedbuck, tawny eagle, hyenas, impalas and jackals to name a few. In spite of continued wet weather we had a comfortable stay and managed to get our game drives and a few sundowners in. This lodge is at a higher elevation so it is cooler here, but there was always a fire blazing in the lounge and hot water bottles in the beds every night. The food (they make the best soups in Africa) and service here was excellent; you can go on walking or jeep safaris, read a book, play a game or chat with other visitors while having some refreshment in the lounge. If you like to shop there are lovely items in the gift shop – jewellery, blankets, books, artwork and clothing. You also have the option of a massage in the privacy of your room. Please see my other Africa journals for more.